So in addition to seeing countless broken tensioners over the years that I always assume were just installer error, I have been witness to a couple that were absolutely not installed wrong, one of which was brand spanking new, that broke when retensioned. The tab was properly installed in the slot, nothing at all was amiss.
TIMING BELT TENSIONER SYMPTOMS CRACKED
When he went to retension the tensioner, that had been installed, tensioned, but the engine was never even started.never even cranked over, it cracked right in front of me. The setting bar fit, but the vacuum pump did not (I think the shop we got the head from put an AHU cam in it by accident). I did not do the job, but I know the guy that did it and I know he knows what he was doing.įast forward another year or so, and I was standing over the shoulder of a guy watching him redo a broken ALH car he bought (head job), and we had already installed and tensioned the belt, properly, and then we found out it had the wrong cam in it. Car only had 40k miles on it, pump was replaced for a fuel temp sensor fault (yes, I know you can just get a sensor, but that is not how the dealers work). Then, a couple years later, we had an injection pump replacement, tensioner was reused (and all the correct timing setting tools were employed) and the car came back on a hook a week later, with the back side of the tensioner cracked, belt jumped, yada-yada-yada. I never really had any opportunity to reuse one anyway. Now I kind of dismissed this as just a vague typical engineer answer, and continued on my way. And his response was that the clockspring inside was compromised after its initial installation, and that it may not be able to hold itself properly if brought all the way back to the 'rest' position and retensioned.
TIMING BELT TENSIONER SYMPTOMS MANUAL
Couple reasons: first, when I worked at Volkswagen I specifically asked one of the field engineers (who was an actual German, even though the Gilmer belt system that VAG uses comes from Litens which is a Canadian company) about why the manual specifically stated in the PM schedule "replace toothed belt AND tensioner", which was not what was ever previously in any of the older eccentric style the older diesels used. And yes, I've only ever used Litens tensioners. I second the tensioning backwards theory as well, that's possible I suppose. The tang is pretty thin, it can cut the plastic and get away from the hole pretty easily. I've seen 'floating' rear covers that weren't properly secured to the head, so the cover can back away from the tang, and on my car, the metal square was missing. Reason I say this is you depend on the rear cover to keep the tang (and hence tension) in place.
did someone in the past lose the 'locking' nut and just grabbed any ol' nut from the stash of 'leftover' fasteners?
and just as importantly, does it have the little metal square around the tang hole? If that tang hole is all plastic, you've lost the little metal piece and that's cause for concern.ģ. is the rear timing belt shroud (rear cover, backplate, whatever you wanna call it) correctly seated?Ģ. Not that it won't hold under normal circumstances, but yours are not 'normal circumstances'.ġ. This nut should be replaced after each use. It is crimped at the top of the non-flanged side.
0 kommentar(er)
